Trout and Grayling Fly Tying Patterns

Here are a few trout fly tying patterns to inspire you fly tying fanatics out there, feel free to revisit as new fly patterns will be updated regularly. Good Luck, Tight Lines and Enjoy.

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Trout Fly Tying Pattern - The Viva Blob

Materials required

Thread - Black UTC 70

Hook - Size #10 Competition Heavy

Tail - Laser Lite Soft Pearl

Body - Jet Black Gel Core Fritz

Cheeks - Chartruese Antron Body Wool

Trout Tying Pattern - The Cactus Sparkler

Fly Pattern History

I got this idea many seasons ago when competition fly fishing on the larger still waters such as Chew and Gratham and fishing international competition rules. Sparklers proved very effective during early and late season and also when the fisheries had been re stocked. When pleasure fishing during the winter fritz lures in any of their forms took their fair share of trout - so why not combine the two. I realise that I am not the first or even the last to thing of this idea as since tying and using I have seen many variations on this theme. As most will agree there is nothing new in fly fishing - only variations on a theme.

In the International competition size I have had great success with this fly, especially at Gratham, however not much joy at Chew. I don't know why but the trout at chew don't seem to like the fly as much as those at Gratham. This fly works especially well by the pumps and in any of the deeper waters on any form of sinking line or as a top dropper when nymph fishing. As ever with lures fish this fly with a varied retrieve. For your local Stillwater use a Gold Head and increase the length of the wing and tail.

Fly Tying Method

Thread - Black
Hook - Size #10 Competition Heavy
Tail and Wing - Gold Maraflash or Gold Sparkler mix
Body - Black Fritz

Fly Tying Procedure

Bed the hook with tying thread and tie in the Gold Maraflash as a tail. Cut the Maraflash to the desired length and bed the flash in tightly with thread. Cut a section of black fritz and strip the it back to the core. Tie in the fritz by the core at the bend of the hook and turn the fritz around the shank stroking back the fibres as you go. This will increase the density of fritz fibres along the shank. Tie off the fritz near the eye and trim. Cut a section of Maraflash the length of the body and tie in as a wing. Form a neat head, whip finish and varnish. Really easy. Other colour combinations include white fritz with silver Maraflash which is similar to a cats whisker.

Trout Fly Tying Pattern - Rabbit double JC VIVA

Fly Pattern History
The VIVA in its many forms has been catching rainbow trout since the days when Bob Church was winning competitions left right and centre with his super fast sinking lead core lines. This particular version is one of my favourite point flies on a 3 or 4 fly cast whilst reservoir competition fishing. This fly is deadly on any Stillwater where there are either a good head of stock fish or early and late season on the bigger waters when rainbow trout are fry bashing. Consult your local water before fishing this fly as many of the smaller stillwaters do not allow doubles.
Why do I like this fly? Firstly it's a good alternative to Blobs when competition fishing. Although early on in any competition fish will fall to blobs they soon realise to stay clear, however stockies will still be aggressive and this fly can really do the trick. The rabbit wing provides tons of movement through the water and the large red head combined with the jungle cock cheeks are real hitting spots. Lastly the green and black VIVA combination is a tried and tested fish catching match of colours. Also being tied on a double it gives the fly that little extra weight to turn over those long leaders. This extra weight is also of great importance when fishing international rules as all flies must not be weighted
Although this fly is tied to international rules length you can also tie this fly on a long shank hook and therefore use a longer rabbit strip to give more movement. When tied this way, tie with a gold head and the fly will give great results at your smaller stillwaters.
As with all VIVA's this fly can be fished on all lines. The most important thing is to really vary that retrieve and twitch the fly to get the most out of the rabbit wing.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - Size #10 competition (sproat) trout double
Main Thread - Black
Tail - Chartreuse floss
Body - Dubbed black Flashabou dubbing
Wing - Rabbit black fur strip
Cheeks - Jungle Cock
Head - Red tying thread
Throat Hackle - Black cock

Fly Tying Procedure

Bed the thread with black thread and tie in the chartreuse floss tail. If the floss you are using is slightly fine double or triple up the floss. Cut a length of rabbit strip, measure the length of the shank of the hook against the rabbit, separate the hair slightly and tie the skin of the strip at the rear of the hook leaving the length toward the eye loose. Dub the thread with black flashabou dubbing and wind the dubbing towards the eye of the hook. Strip the front edge of the rabbit strip near the eye and lay the strip over the back of the fly. Tie in, double whip finish and trim. Change the bobbin now for the red thread and bed over the head of the fly. Bear in mind that for this fly you need a larger head than you would usually use - consult the picture for reference. Tie in the jungle cock cheeks and throat hackle. Form a neat head, double whip finish and apply 3 coats of varnish.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns - Black Superglue Buzzer

Fly Tying History
Buzzers form such a large part of a trout’s diet that a buzzer pattern must be included in any fly angler’s box. Buzzers can vary greatly in both size and colour and be prominent food source on both still waters and slow running rivers. Sizes can vary from the equivalent of #26 up to #8. Colours range from bright red (bloodworm) to the darkest black and include all shades of olives and brown. The cheeks shown on most patterns only occur on the naturals as the pupa reaches the surface to emerge. This is when blood pumps into the thorax area ready for the wing case to split for the adult to emerge. Fishing buzzers can be an art form in itself. Buzzers move up the water column slowly thrashing their tails to make progress. Every few inches or so the buzzers has to rest and therefore will begin to sink. Therefore the best way to fish the fly is with as little retrieve as possible, letting the prevailing winds and the natural flow of water to do the work for the angler. The only retrieve would be to slowly take up the slack. When fishing these flies from a boat a long steady pull can prove dividends thereby emulating the rising pupa. These flies also work well fishing the hang method. Fishing the bung can be a deadly method of fishing these flies although this does not appeal to the purist. Once you have determined the feeding zones of the fish set your bung to this depth and let the flies drift. Alternatively fish more than one fly using droppers to cover the entire water column.
Buzzers fish well on all lines in appropriate depths of water. The key is in the retrieve.
Superglue buzzers work well due to the fact they emulate the pupa effectively and they sink quickly to the feeding zone. The painted cheeks can be of any colour you require, the most common being bright red or orange. These are easy flies to tie you just have to be careful of the glue. Hook sizes will depend on the local buzzer population although #10 and #12 are the most common. Preferred hooks are either grub or sedge, sedge being my personal favourite.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - #14 - #10 Grub or Sedge
Thread - Black
Rib - Fine Silver Wire
Body Coating - Superglue
Cheeks - Red Poster Paint

Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with tying thread; tie in a small length of silver wire. Carry on with the thread past the bend and return the thread to a few millimetres before the eye of the hook. Ensuring to cover the whole of the hook with thread evenly. Rib with the silver wire, in fairly open turns the body of the fly, and continue up to the point where you have stopped the thread. Tie in the silver wire rib and trim off as close as possible. Continue to wrap turns of thread until you obtain a nice bulbous thorax area as per photograph. Whip finish. Apply 1 coat of Superglue. Allow the Superglue to dry thoroughly and paint on the cheeks. If you paint the cheeks before applying the glue the paint will soak into the thread. Allow the painted cheeks to harden and apply the second coat of Superglue. Once dry the fly is ready to fish.

Trout and Grayling Fly Tying Patterns - Body Stretch PTN

Fly Pattern History
The PTN (pheasant tail nymph) has been in the fly fisher’s armoury for centuries. The original pattern had the body, tail and thorax cover composed from the tail feathers of a pheasant, hence the name. This pattern has been so successful due to the scope of naturals which this fly can emulate. Depending on the combination of pheasant tail colour and hook size can cover anything from tiny olives to large stoneflies. Using the body stretch material for the body gives a translucency and appearance of the natural insects. The peacock glister thorax is there mainly as I love this material in any thorax situation. This addition both makes the fly look great and the fish love it too. Peacock glister is fantastic for any thorax from nymphs to dries. This pattern is always on my cast when river fishing or when nymph fishing on still waters.

Fly Tying Method

Hooks - #18 to #10
Thread - Black or Brown
Tail - Natural Pheasant Tail
Body - Brown Body Stretch
Thorax - Peacock Glister Dubbing
Head - Gold Head to Suit Hook Size

Tying Procedure
1. Slide on gold bead and start to bed hook behind gold bead.
2. Select 3 slips from a natural pheasant tail, pinch and loop the slips to form a tail.
3. Trim excess pheasant tail fibres and tie in a piece of body stretch material. Pull the body stretch and overlay the material with thread until you meet the point where the tail meets the hook. Return the thread to behind the gold head.
4. Keeping the body stretch taught wind the body stretch towards the eye in overlapping turns. Once you have reached the thorax area catch the material in.
5. Pull the body stretch back toward the tail flattening the material. Place a few wraps of thread over this as this will give you a nice flat thorax cover.
6. Apply wax to the thread and dub with peacock glister. You don't need much glister to get the desired effect. Brush thorax with dubbing brush if required.
7. To finish the fly place the body stretch over the thorax and catch in with thread, making sure that the thorax cover remains flat. Trim the excess, whip finish and varnish.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns - Black Flexi Floss Buzzer

Fly Tying History
Buzzers form such a large part of a trout’s diet that a buzzer pattern must be included in any fly angler’s box. Buzzers can vary greatly in both size and colour and can be a prominent food source on both still waters and slow running rivers. Sizes can vary from the equivalent of #26 up to #8. Colours range from bright red (bloodworm) to the darkest black and include all shades of olives and brown. The cheeks shown on most patterns only occur on the naturals as the pupa reaches the surface to emerge. This is when blood pumps into the thorax area ready for the wing case to split for the adult to emerge. Fishing buzzers can be an art form in itself. Buzzers move up the water column slowly thrashing their tails to make progress. Every few inches or so the buzzers has to rest and therefore will begin to sink. Therefore the best way to fish the fly is with as little retrieve as possible, letting the prevailing winds and the natural flow of water to do the work for the angler. The only retrieve would be to slowly take up the slack. When fishing these flies from a boat a long steady pull can prove dividends thereby emulating the rising pupa. These flies also work well fishing the hang method. Fishing the bung can be a deadly method of fishing these flies although this does not appeal to the purist. Once you have determined the feeding zones of the fish set your bung to this depth and let the flies drift. Alternatively fish more than one fly using droppers to cover the entire water column.
Buzzers fish well on all lines in appropriate depths of water. The key is in the retrieve.
Flexi floss buzzers work well due to the fact they emulate the pupa effectively (semi translucent) and they sink quickly to the feeding zone. The Flexi Floss cheeks can be of any colour you require, the most common being bright red or orange. These are easy flies to tie you just have to be careful of the glue. Hook sizes will depend on the local buzzer population although #10 and #12 are the most common. This pattern fished really well in the smaller sizes also especially on those really hard days. Preferred hooks are either grub or sedge, sedge being my personal favourite.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - #14 - #10 Grub or Sedge
Thread - Black
Rib - Black Flexi Floss
Body Coating - Sally Hanson's Hard as Nails.
Cheeks - Orange Flexi Floss.

Tying Procedure

Bed the hook with tying thread; tie in a small length of black flexi floss. Carry on with the thread past the bend whilst keeping tension on the flexi floss and return the thread to a few millimetres before the eye of the hook. Ensuring to cover the whole of the hook with thread evenly. Rib. with just touching turns, the body of the fly and continue up to the point where you have stopped the thread. Tie in the Flexi floss rib and trim off as close as possible. Continue to wrap turns of thread until you obtain a nice bulbous thorax area as per photograph. At the rear of the thorax tie in a length of orange flexi floss underneath the thorax and continue the thread to the eye of the hook. Pull each cheek tight to the top of the eye and tie in 1 at a time by the eye of the hook. Once both cheeks are tied in give a few securing wraps and carefully trim the orange flexi floss. The flexi floss will have to be trimmed under tension. Whip finish and apply 2 coats of sally Hanson’s hard as nails. Once dry the fly is ready to fish.

Trout and Grayling Fly Tying Patterns - The Caddis Bead Sedge Larva

Fly Pattern History  
Cased caddis create a case for themselves from debris within their surrounding environment. This can include small twigs, leaves stones and sand. They live in both rivers and still waters, poking their heads out of the cases and using their legs to move. Both trout and grayling love these protein packed morsels and when available will gorge themselves. The above pattern can be used for both still and running water but comes into the fore on rivers. The inclusion of the split shot on top of the shank means that the hook will fish upside down therefore keeping the hook from getting fouled on the river bed. The body is composed from hares ear which is a good general body material for most cases, however, substituting for different coloured seals fur or even gluing sand to the body will help you match the naturals. The Cadis bead is a substitute for the inner body of the pupa. This produces a good hitting spot for the fish, even in coloured water and emulates the natural shape of the peeping caddis. The best way to fish this pattern is Czech nymph style on the point of a 3 fly cast, keeping the fly as near to the river bed as possible.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - #10 - #14 standard or long shank
Thread - Black
Body - 25lb mono, Caddis bead, Hares ear fur (include plenty of guard hairs)
Rib - Fine copper wire (optional)
Hackle - Olive or natural partridge
Weight - Non toxic split shot

Tying Procedure
1. Take a short length of 25lb mono and melt 1 end until you get a ball of molten mono with a lighter. Let cool
2. Colour the end of the mono with a black permanent marker.
3. Take another piece of 25lb mono and crimp on a piece of non toxic split shot. The size of shot will depend on how much weight you need on the fly
4. Put the hook in the vice and bed the shank with thread. Tie in 1 side of the mono with the split shot attached making sure you leave enough mono so that when you fold the mono over, the split shot lies flat against the shank of the hook. When positioning the mono make sure that the split in the shot faces away from the shank of the hook. This ensures that if the shot becomes looses whilst fishing the shot will remain in place so that you can re crimp if needed.
5. Return the thread to the eye. Wax the thread and dub some hares ear on the thread. I personally like to use a hair rake and rake the hair off the ear on the mask. This ensures that there is plenty of guard hares in the mix and will give a spiky texture to the body.
6. Fold the mono over and tie in. Give plenty of wraps to ensure that the mono is secure. Trim the excess mono.
7. Take the other piece of mono and slip on the caddis bead.
8. Tie in this mono with the bead just in front of the bend of the hook. Give plenty of wraps of thread to secure. Trim excess mono.
9. Select a partridge hackle and tie in at the tip with the curvature of the hackle facing outwards.
10. Trim the excess of the tip and wind on the hackle, giving it plenty of turns. Tie in and trim excess.
11. Here you can tie in a rib if you require. Bed the shank of the hook with plenty of thread to give a level shank. Wax the thread and dub loosely with the raked hares ear.
12. Wind the dubbed thread along the shank. If you have included a rib, rib the body here and tie off. Dub a small amount of thread and in 1 turn move the position of the from in front of the split shot to the eye. Whip finish and varnish. The fly is complete.

For an alternative to the split shot why not try Jig hooks by Jiri Klima. These not only make the fly easier to tie but the hooks have been plated and have a gold colour which grayling just love.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns - The Hot Head Spider

Fly Tying History
Anyone who fishes spider patterns knows how such a deadly tying design this can be. Traditionally these flies where used on the North Country Rivers although this pattern became popular across the whole country. Recently these have become a little out of favour; however once you have fished these patterns you will never look back. The standard method to fish spiders is using the down and across method on rivers. However I have had excellent success fishing these upstream on small rivers and allowing the flies to drift across the breeze on still waters.
This pattern is essentially a black and peacock spider. The traditional pattern is excellent in a midge rise on both still waters and rivers. The addition of the hot head bead to substitute a thorax gives the fish a hitting spot. The big advantage of this pattern is that it can be fished at all depths with any kind of retrieve. If the fish are in an aggressive mood pull this fly and it will reap dividends. As the pattern resembles naturals in the water the fish will not be put off as per a standard lure from seeing the same fly too often.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - #16 to #10
Thread - Black
Hackle - Black Hen
Body - Peacock Herl
Rib - Fine Silver Wire
Thorax - Hot Head Bead Lime Green.

Tying Procedure
1. Slip on the glow bead and place near the eye of the hook. Bed hook with thread behind the bead.
2. Tie in the peacock herl and silver wire rib.
3. Cut off excess, continue bedding hook with thread and return to just behind the glow bead. Wrap the body with peacock herl and tie in. Trim the excess and rib the body with the silver wire, Tie off, trim excess and whip finish behind the glow bead.
 4. Push the bead slightly back onto the body and bed the hook between the eye and the bead. Tie in a black hen hackle at the point. I personally prefer a longer than standard hackle due to the extra movement. Here experiment to obtain the look and movement you require.
 5. Trim the tip of the hackle fibre and give the fly 1 or 2 turns of hackle. Catch the hackle in, form a neat head, whip finish and varnish.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns - The Peacock Bloodworm

Fly Pattern History
Buzzers form such a large part of a trout’s diet that a buzzer pattern must be included in any fly angler’s box. Buzzers can vary greatly in both size and colour and can be a prominent food source on both still waters and slow running rivers. Sizes can vary from the equivalent of #26 up to #8. Colours range from bright red (bloodworm) to the darkest black and include all shades of olives and brown. The cheeks shown on most patterns only occur on the naturals as the pupa reaches the surface to emerge. This is when blood pumps into the thorax area ready for the wing case to split for the adult to emerge. Fishing buzzers can be an art form in itself. Buzzers move up the water column slowly thrashing their tails to make progress. Every few inches or so the buzzers has to rest and therefore will begin to sink. Therefore the best way to fish the fly is with as little retrieve as possible, letting the prevailing winds and the natural flow of water to do the work for the angler. The only retrieve would be to slowly take up the slack. When fishing these flies from a boat a long steady pull can prove dividends thereby emulating the rising pupa. These flies also work well fishing the hang method. Fishing the bung can be a deadly method of fishing these flies although this does not appeal to the purist. Once you have determined the feeding zones of the fish set your bung to this depth and let the flies drift. Alternatively fish more than one fly using droppers to cover the entire water column.
Buzzers fish well on all lines in appropriate depths of water. The key is in the retrieve.
Superglue buzzers and bloodworm work well due to the fact they emulate the pupa effectively and they sink quickly to the feeding zone. These are easy flies to tie you just have to be careful of the glue. Hook sizes will depend on the local bloodworm population although #10 and #12 are the most common. Preferred hooks are either grub or sedge, sedge being my personal favourite.

Fly Tying method

Hook - #14 - 10 Grub or Sedge
Thread - Fine Red Fluorescent Tying Floss
Rib - Stripped Peacock Herl
Body Coating - Superglue

Tying Procedure
Strip the peacock herl with thumb and forefinger to expose the flue. Do this carefully so as not to break the herl. Bed the hook with tying thread; tie in peacock herl. Carry on with the thread past the bend and return the thread to a few millimetres before the eye of the hook. Ensuring to cover the whole of the hook with thread evenly. Rib in fairly open turns the body of the fly and continue up to the point where you have stopped the thread. Tie in the peacock herl rib and trim off as close as possible. Continue to wrap turns of thread until you obtain a nice bulbous thorax area as per photograph. Whip finish. Apply 2 coats of Superglue. Once dry the fly is ready to fish.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns - The Peacock Pea

Fly Pattern History
This is another competition favourite that has helped win many still water matches especially at the beginning and the end of the season. The black / green combination has always been an excellent fish catcher. Using peacock herl for the body creates a bronze iridescence that emulates natural insects but couple this with the chartreuse glister dubbing gives the trout a hitting spot. The dubbing also creates vortexes around the fly when pulled through the water creating both movement at the head section and extra movement at the tail. The above fly is tied using international competition rules and hence works best on all sinking lines. However if you fish this fly for pleasure it works better when using a floating line with the inclusion of a gold head and a longer marabou tail.


Fly Tying Method

Hook - #14 to #10 Competition Heavy Weight
Thread - Black
Tail - Black Marabou
Body - Peacock Herl
Rib - Fine Copper Wire
Head - Chartreuse Glister Dubbing

Tying Procedure
Bed the hook shank with thread, take a pinch of black marabou and tie this in for the tail and trim excess. Tie in a strip of peacock herl at the thick end of the herl for strength and tie in a length of fine copper wire, trim excess. Return the thread to 1/3 length of the hook shank from the eye. Wrap the hook shank with the peacock herl and tie off. Rib the body with the wire with equal turns and in the opposite direction of the peacock wraps to give extra strength to the body. Tie off and trim excess. Prepare the tying thread with wax and dub the thread with glister. Wrap the dubbed thread on the rest of the hook shank, whip finish and varnish.

Trout and Grayling Fly Tying Patterns - The Glister Hot Spot Hares Ear

Fly Pattern History
Nearly all still water venues have populations of both shrimp and hog louse and some of these populations are huge. At varying times of the year trout will gorge themselves on these invertebrates especially during early and late seasons when fly pupae are dormant. As shrimp and hog louse are prevalent throughout the year trout will feed on these all year round. This makes it essential to have a good shrimp pattern in your box. 
I have always enjoyed still water buzzer fishing during the summer months and continued this type of fishing during the winter using standard shrimp / nymph patterns such as gold ribbed hares ear etc. As excellent as these patterns are I felt that more could be done. Late autumn is the spawning time for shrimp when they take on a slightly pink hue. Also bloodworms buried in the silt are always on the trout menu. Therefore the design for this pattern arose. Hares ear is used for the body for the fly which is heavily teased to emulate breathers and legs whilst the glister hotspot does a few things. It gives the fly a hitting spot for the trout, creates movement in the fly when fished and when wet gives that slight pink hue to the fly. The final addition is a micro thickness strip of red holographic tinsel as a back. I believe this gives the impression of bloodworm. Whether this is what the trout see is another thing however the fly catches more trout with the inclusion of the holographic strip. 
You can fish this fly on any line, either singularly or as part of a team. I prefer using a floating line detecting bites by subtle twitches or under a bung fished static (typical nymph fishing). The fly works just as well with the inclusion of a gold head or tungsten bead. With the gold head it makes this fly an excellent grayling pattern when river fishing.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - Size #10-14 Grub
Thread - Brown
Body - Natural Hares Ear
Rib - Medium Copper Wire
Hotspot - Red Glister Dubbing
Over Body - Micro Red Holographic Tinsel

Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with tying thread and finish at the bend of the hook. Cut a section of copper wire, tie in and trim. Cut a strip of red holographic tinsel and tie this in at the bend of the hook also. Dub the thread with hares ear including as many of the guard hairs as possible. Wrap this up the middle of the shank. Dub some red glister dubbing on the thread and create the fly hot spot. Dub some more hares ear and wrap this till just before the eye of the hook. Place the previously tied in holographic tinsel over the back of the fly, tie in and trim. Rib the fly with the copper wire making sure that the holographic back does not slip around the hook. Tie in the rib and trim. Create a neat head, whip finish and varnish.

Trout and Grayling Fly Tying Patterns - Body Stretch Shrimp

Fly Tying History
It is widely regarded that the common freshwater shrimp is a main stay food item of trout and grayling at various times of the year. Due to their prolific numbers and wide dispersion throughout the UK and overseas a shrimp pattern must be included in your fly box. This pattern is one of the best, catching for me all over the world. As shrimp and hog louse are similar in size and shape the pattern is suitable when the fish are feeding on either of these. Both of these feed on debris near or on the bottom, hence the inclusion of a lead under body. Vary the thickness of this to get the best combination of ease of casting whilst keeping the fly as near to the bottom as possible. On still waters the best way to fish the fly is a slow retrieve, similar to buzzer fishing. With river work Czech Nymphing or under a site indicator (a large dry fly can be used for this) is the preferred method.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - #10 - #16 Buzzer / Grub
Thread - Black
Under body - Lead Wire, Size to Suit
Body - Seals Fur, Colour to Suit
Rib - Silver Wire
Shell back - Body Stretch, Colour to Suit
Legs - Natural Partridge

Tying Procedure
1. Take a piece of lead wire, coat the hook with a fine coat of super glue and wrap the lead wire in close turns, covering most of the hook shank and leaving enough room behind the eye to eventually obtain a neat head. Trim excess and leave to dry.
2. Bed the hook with plenty of thread to obtain a smooth under body finish. Rotate the hook in the vice to gain access around the bend of the hook
3. Tie in a length of body stretch and fine silver wire at the rear of the hook.
4. Create a dubbing loop at the rear of the hook and lock into place. (the thread wraps in the picture have been continued up the shank of the hook for ease of viewing.
5. Wax and dub the thread with seals fur. I personally prefer traditional Irish dubbing to the colour range and texture. Select a colour to suit the local population of shrimp.
6. Rotate the hook in the vice to get access to the main body of the hook. Continue to dub the hook up to just before the eye.
7. Using a dubbing brush fluff up the body
8. Strip the fibres from the partridge hackles, wax the dubbing loop, place the partridge fibres in the loop and spin. For this I use Marc Petitjean tools as these makes the insertion of the fibres easier. Wind the spun dubbing loop (which now looks like a hackle brush) up the body in open and equal turns. Tie off and trim.
9. Using your fingers stroke the partridge fibres in a downward movement until all the fibres point towards the hook point.
10. Pull the body stretch over the back of the fly ensuring that it is central. Keep the body stretch taught, tie in securely and trim excess.
11. Rib the fly with the silver wire in open and equidistant turns. Here take your time to not trap any of the partridge legs by the wire. I find using a dubbing needle to move the legs whilst ribbing invaluable for this. Tie in and trim excess. Construct a neat head, whip finish and varnish. The fly is now complete.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns - The Glister Damsel

Fly Pattern History
This is another one of those trout patterns that was on the 'Top Secret' list for many years and used by some of the top reservoir trout anglers in the country. Consequently its success speaks for itself. This pattern is tied to international competition rules but is just as successful with the inclusion of a gold head when fishing at your local still water. Most still waters have a large population of Damsel nymphs of which trout gorge themselves on throughout the year, especially during early and late season. The movement created by the grizzle marabou tail and the glister body makes this fly irresistible to trout. This fly works well on all lines and retrieves depending on the trout's feeding zone. Fish it slow on a floating line to any retrieve you like on any sinking line depending on the depth of water fished.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - Size #16-10 Competition Heavy
Thread - Olive
Body - Olive Glister Dubbing
Tail and Over Body - Olive Grizzle Marabou

Tying Procedure
Bed the shank of the hook with olive tying thread and return the thread to just before the bend. Select some grizzle marabou fibres and tie them in as a tail. Leave enough excess to be used as an over body. Apply wax to the thread and dub the olive glister into the thread. This at first can be a little tricky but pull the glister fibres apart before dubbing and you will find that you get a neater body. Wrap the dubbing in close turns up the shank toward the eye of the hook and pull the grizzle marabou fibres over the body tie in and trim excess. Construct a neat head and whip finish. Apply at least 2 coats of varnish to the head as after a couple of trout the over body can become loose if not enough varnish is applied.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns Glo Floss Diawl Bach

Fly Tying History
Diawl Bach patterns have been used on the competition scene for many years and has now become a standard pattern for most anglers. As with all successful patterns the variations are endless. I came across the pattern in the fly dressers guild monthly magazine that you get free with your subscription. Joining is worth it just for this. At the time I had been doing a lot of competition fishing at Chew Valley in Somerset where Diawl back patterns and anorexic nymphs are fantastic when the fish are on naturals. This is one of the patterns that got me a place in the European finals that year. I have also found this pattern an excellent middle dropper pattern during early and late season or fished singularly with a slow retrieve. If there is a lot of olives or damsels in your local fishery then the olive version cannot be beaten. This can be tied in a variety of body colours, the favourites being orange, olive, black and claret.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - #16-#8 Super Grub
Thread - Orange Glo Floss Fine
Tail and Throat - Hot Orange Cock Feather Fibres
Underbody Coating - Superglue
Over body - Stripped Peacock Herl

Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with the floss (use a bobbin and make sure you use the thinnest floss available) and tie in 6 to 12 cock feather fibres for a tail. Strip a length of peacock herl down one side. There are varying methods for this but I prefer using my finger and thumb, stroking against the flue and using your thumbnail to remove the fibres. This takes a little bit of practise and you will find that you will snap quite a few strands at first. However this becomes quicker than using methods such as an eraser etc. Tie the peacock herl in at the rear of the fly by the thick end of the flue. You get a better effect doing it this way than the traditional method of tying in the thin end and the floss will cover up any extra bulk. Cover the body with super glue and wait until it is nearly dry. Then wrap the body with peacock herl in equal turns, tie in and wait for the glue to dry. Once dry, trim the excess herl and tie in a throat hackle of orange cock. When whip finishing the head, spin the bobbin to tighten the floss strands as this will ensure a neat head. Varnish the head and you are ready to fish the fly.

Trout Fly Tying Patterns Buzzer Emerger

Fly Pattern History
This is new Fly Tying Pattern and another one of those flies that is not only easy to tie but fantastic at catching trout. I came across this pattern a few years ago when I was doing allot of competition Trout Fly Fishing. In the afternoon on match days the fish tend to become very finicky after seeing so many blobs etc earlier in the day. Even if the fish where avidly feeding on buzzers ( midge Pupae ) it did not matter what you put in front of them they would not bite - however this pattern did the trick when all else had failed. You need to fish this fly on a floating line with the slightest of retrieve and ties in the smaller sizes to emulate the natural midge pupae. Don't underestimate this fly when Trout Fly Fishing, hold on to your rod, when trout hit this fly they hit it hard!

Fly Tying Method

Hook - Size #18-14 Grub Hook
Thread - Black
Body - Thread
Thorax - Natural Hares Ear
Rib - Fine Pearl Tinsel

Tying Procedure
Although any buzzer can be tied on a competition or wet fly hook, I prefer using grub or sedge hooks when tying this Trout Fly Pattern, as I feel they are preferred by the trout. Bed the hook with thread and tie in a length of fine pearl tinsel just after the bend of the hook. Return the thread to the thorax area and apply wax to the thread. Lightly dub the thread with natural hares ear, use guard hairs as this will give the thorax more texture, and movement as the fly drops through the water column. Rib the fly with the pearl tinsel and tie off at the eye. Whip finish and apply 2 coats of Superglue to the body of the fly. Easy and effective!

Trout Fly Tying Patterns The Nomad

Fly Pattern History
This is one of the most famous and successful lures of all time. The original pattern was designed and fished by the Nomad fly fishing team based out of the Midlands. Using this fly the team won most of the major still water competitions and consequently was kept on the 'secret list' for many years. The above example, the olive and black variant, is by far the best colour combination for most still waters. 
On a fly design aspect the Nomad offers some points of note. The red Glo floss head acts as a natural hitting spot for the trout whilst the olive fritz creates a vortex when the fly is pulled creating more noise through the water plus pulsating the marabou tail. The tail should not be dressed too heavily as this impairs movement. As ever we want to tie flies that catch fish not the angler. Another good addition to the Nomad is to tie in some blue holographic tinsel in the tail. This can prove the ultimate lure - however be warned! The inclusion of the blue holographic tinsel can make this fly devastating or completely put the fish off the feed. If it works on your water you will get unbelievable catches, if it doesn't there is a good chance you will blank. However if you keep to the above combination you won't go far wrong. 
Fishing this fly is basically up to you. It will work from a floating line through to the fastest of sinkers. On a floating line either twitch very slowly or pull a few inches and then let it sink up to maybe 30 seconds. Most of the fish will be taken at this time as the fly descends to the bottom. Fishing the Nomad on a sinking line can range form very fast (blob) pulling to a twitchy constant retrieve. My personal favourite method is to use a fast glass (clear intermediate) with a fast sinking poly leader attached to the fly line. The Polly leader then drags the fly to the bottom and effectively hinges the fly over any ledges etc on the lake bed. Using a short leader of about 6 - 8 feet gets that fly to the bottom. Retrieve then with a constant twitching retrieve and hold on to your rod. The Trout love this fly. Lastly as with all lure fishing move around the lake as the trout soon get used to the lures.

Fly Tying Method

Hook Size #10 Competition Heavy
Thread Black
Body Olive Fritz
Tail Black Marabou
Hotspot (head) Red Glo Floss (with 2 coats of hard as nails)
Gold Head Medium Gold Head

Tying Procedure
Slip a medium sized gold head bead onto the hook. Bed the hook with tying thread along the last half of the hook shank towards the bend. Return the thread to the bend of the hook. Take a pinch of black marabou and tie this in just before the bend of the hook. Trim the marabou. If you wish to add some blue holographic tinsel in the tail add it now. Take a length of Olive fritz and strip some of the flash off the core to expose the thread. Tie the thread core of the fritz in at the bend and return to half way up the hook shank. Wrap the fritz in close turns pulling back the flash of the fritz with each turn. This makes the fritz as bushy as possible. Continue with the fritz up to the half way point. Whip finish, trim and varnish. When dry push the bead up to the fritz. Change the thread in the bobbin holder for some fine red Glo floss yarn. Pushing the gold head up to the fritz make a cone shape with the thread. Whip finish and apply two coats of Sally Hanson's hard as nails. The fly is ready to fish. Other colour combinations worth a note for this fly are cats whisker, orange, sunburst and all olive

Tight lines and good luck!
CudaFly

Trout Fly Tying Patterns Anorexic Emerger

Fly Pattern History
This is one the top secret competition patterns that we at Barracuda can now show you. This pattern has won more matches when the fish are on naturals than other that I know of. Fished from Rutland to Chew valley this pattern has been the key to some major successes. This fly can be fished on any line and with any retrieve. However it really comes really into its own when fished static and on the hang. Trout love it, so ensure that all your knots are strong as when they hit this fly, they hit it very hard. Essentially the pattern represents buzzers hatching. Colour combinations are endless, the best being this one and a combination of black pheasant tail with an orange glo brite head. The key to tying the pattern is to make the dressing as thin as possible to emulate the naturals.

Fly Tying Method

Hook #14 to #10 Competition Light Weight 
Thread Black
Tail White / Honey Cock
Body 3 Strands Natural pheasant Tail
Rib Fine Silver Wire
Head Orange Glo Brite Floss Fine

Tying Procedure
This is any easy pattern to tie but as it is tied using only half of the shank neatness is paramount to ensure that the fly does not look like the bomb squad has examined it. As usual bed the shank of the hook with thread but stop at half way down the shank. Tie in a few strands of white or honey cock. When choosing length you ideally choose half the length of the hook shank. Take 3 strands of pheasant tail (anymore and the body becomes too bulky) and tie this in at the tips. Return the thread to the eye and tie in the silver wire here. This will ensure that there is no bump on the body. Cover the wire and shank with further wraps of thread and finish just before the eye. Wrap the hook shank with the pheasant tail ( you will only need a few turns to cover the shank) and tie off. Rib the body with equal turns in the opposite direction of the pheasant tail. This will help to give the body strength. Trim and whip finish but don't produce a head. Place the fine glo brite floss in a bobbin and use this to produce a neat head. Whip finish and trim. I like to apply a couple of coats of either super glue or 'hard as nails' to protect the floss head. The fly is finished and ready to fish with confidence.
Tight lines and good luck!
CudaFly

Trout Fly Tying Patterns Crystal Montana

Fly Pattern History
Montana's are another one of those flies that are one of the staple patterns of fly anglers. Consequently the variations on this pattern are endless, and this is mine. Montana's are tied to represent the stonefly nymph and has great success throughout the world. The above pattern has been tied to international competition standard but works equally well with the inclusion of a brass bead at the head and a longer marabou tail. This pattern works well on all densities of lines and throughout the year. It can be pulled during the winter as a lure and fished slowly on a floating line during the summer. The inclusion of the pearl crystal hair gives the fish a real hitting spot. When I was tying for Tree Meadow fishery in Cornwall I couldn't tie these patterns quick enough as the demand was so high. This pattern will catch you fish.

Fly Tying Method
Hook #14 Heavy Nymph to #8 Long Shank 
Thread Black
Tail Black Marabou
Rear body and thorax cover Micro Black Chenille
Wings 3 Strands Pearl Crinkle Flash
Thorax Micro Chartreuse Chenille

Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with tying thread and continue to the rear of the hook. Take a pinch of black marabou and tie this in at the rear, bed the hook shank well with tying thread making sure there are no bumps from the marabou. Select a section of micro black chenille and using your thumb and forefinger strip the chenille to reveal the inner core. Tie this in at the rear by the core only - otherwise you will get a big bump at the rear of the fly. Wrap the chenille around the hook up to 3/4 the length of the shank. Tie off and pull the chenille up and back to the rear ready to use for the thorax cover. Take three strands of crinkle flash and tie following the shank of the hook as pictured and repeat on the other side of the fly. Tie off and trim both sides the same length. Strip a section of micro chartreuse chenille, tie this in and wrap towards the eye. Tie off and trim. Take the black chenille that was tied off and pull forward for the thorax cover. Tie this off, whip finish and varnish the head.
Tight lines and good luck!
CudaFly

Salmon Fly Tying Patterns

Here are a few salmon fly tying patterns to inspire you fly tying fanatics out there, feel free to revisit as new fly patterns will be updated regularly. Good Luck, Tight Lines and Enjoy.

If you would like to see any of your own patterns on these pages simply complete the CONTACT US form with a paragraph describing and how to fish, tying instructions with material list and a photograph. Please title the CONTACT US form 'fly tying pattern submission' due to the amount of junk email we receive.
For every pattern listed we will send you a fly tying 'goodie bag' worth £10

Eumer Cone Head Tube 1

This Pattern was provided by Eumer in Finland. Thank you so much from the CudaFly Team

Choose a Eumer Hone Head tube, lining tube, hook mounting tube and a cone head

Apply heat to the end of the inner lining tube with the flame of a lighter to form a collar. Fix into a tube vice and start tying by applying the tying thread onto inner lining tube.

Attach the first arctic fox wing and add few strands of copper coloured flash fibres either side of the Artic Fox wing.

Attach a throat hackle from arctic fox body hair. You may find it easier to attach this by rotating the vice such that the bottom of the salmon tube is positioned on top.

Attach a second over wing of black arctic fox using the thumb to spread the over wing at the tying in point

Add a few strands of peacock herl as horns either side of the over wing and jungle cock cheeks.

Trim of the excess Artic Fox from the head. This is best done with a sharp scalpel or modelling knife as you can cut the hair close to the thread leaving less build up. Whip finish a neat head and apply few drops of Varnish to seal.

Slide a cone head onto the inner tube and, trim off excess tube leaving 2-3 mm projecting outside the cone head. Form a collar by applying heat into the plastic tube with a lighter. Add hook mounting tube and the fly is finished as above.

Saltwater Fly Tying Patterns

Here are a few saltwater fly tying patterns to inspire you fly tying fanatics out there, feel free to revisit as new fly patterns will be updated regularly. Good Luck, Tight Lines and Enjoy.

If you would like to see any of your own patterns on these pages simply complete the CONTACT US form with a paragraph describing and how to fish, tying instructions with material list and a photograph. Please title the CONTACT US form 'fly tying pattern submission' due to the amount of junk email we receive.
For every pattern listed we will send you a fly tying 'goodie bag' worth £10

Saltwater Fly Tying Patterns - Olive Surf Candy

Fly Tying History
Surf candies have been available since epoxy has been used in fly tying. This particular pattern is on of the easiest to tie and therefore one of the best to start tying. All candies represent various bait fish, this one the common sand eel. Sand eels are found all around the UK coast from March until October and all year in the south west. These high protein packed morsels are actively sought by all fish species especially the European Bass. Fish this fly on all densities of fly lines with a Varied retrieve.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - Stainless steel size #6 to #2/0
Thread - White
Underbody - Silver Holographic Tinsel
1st Wing - White Crinkle Hair
2nd Wing - Olive Crinkle Hair
Flash - Pearl Crinkle Flash (Krystalflash)
Eyes - Flat Holographic
Head - Epoxy

Fly Tying Procedure

Bed the hook with thread and tie in silver holographic tinsel at the rear of the hook. Return the thread to the eye and wrap the shank of the hook with the holographic tinsel and tie in. Trim the excess and tie in a length of white Crinkle hair just before the eye. Trim excess and tie in a few strands on pearl crinkle flash and overlay the final wing of olive crinkle hair. Tie all excess materials form a neat head and whip finish. Apply a coat of epoxy and wait to dry. Once dry apply the eyes and draw gills on either side of the fly with permanent red marker. Apply a second coat of epoxy rotating the vice until dry so as to get an even coat around the fly. Once dry apply a coat of Sally Hanson's hard as nails if preferred for a smoother finish.

Saltwater Fly Tying Patterns - Pearl Crazy Charlie

Fly Fishing History
As with many of the worlds most successful patterns there are a huge number of variations on the original pattern. The Crazy Charlie is one of those patterns. Crazy Charlie’s can represent anything from shrimp to small bait fish of which the pearl variation represents these very well. Although this pattern was designed for warmer climates it works well in UK waters. Fishing this fly from rock marks produces mackerel, Pollack and garfish and when those elusive bass are on small fry there are few better patterns.From a tying design perspective the Crazy Charlie offers some noteworthy points. The first in the heavy dumb bell eyes ties in at the top of the hook shank. This ensures that the fly will fish ‘up side down’ giving the advantage of the hook point has less chance of getting fouled by water debris. The dumb bells also give the fly a ‘jigging’ action in the water which predatory fish find attractive. Lastly when the fly is fished over sand the dumb bells create small puffs of sand similar to both sand eel and shrimp. I have used this method to great effect on trout flies such as cat’s whisker which can produce when other methods have failed. The second noteworthy point is the heavy mono rib in touching turns. This gives not only a protection for the delicate tinsel body but also a segmented effect. This method is an excellent alternative to epoxy.As said earlier I have had great success with the fly in the UK but also overseas catching species form Spanish mackerel to bonefish.

Fly Tying method

Hook - #4 - #8 stainless steel
Thread - White
Eyes - Brass or lead dumb bell
Body - Pearl Crystal
Over body - 25lb mono

Fly Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with tying thread; tie in a tail of pearl crystal flash. Return the thread to just before the eye of the hook. Tie in some more pearl crystal and a length of 25lb mono. Bed the materials down to the bend of the hook and then return the thread back up the hook to the eye position. Wrap the shank of the hook with pearl tinsel in touching tie off and trim. Do the same with the 25lb mono. Here you will need to tie in the mono plenty of times otherwise the mono will unwrap. Tie in the dumb bell eyes on the top of the hook shank with figure of eight wraps ensuring that the eyes are 90 degrees to the hook shank otherwise the fly will twist in the water when fished. Tie in a throat hackle of pearl crystal flash. Tie in a neat head whip finish and varnish. For extra durability I varnish with Sally Hanson’s hard as nails including the figure of eight wraps over the dumb bell eyes. For an extra hitting spot why not paint the end of the eyes with fluorescent paint (as pictured).

Saltwater Tying Patterns - Hares Ear Saltwater Shrimp

Fly Pattern History
This is one of the best saltwater shrimp patterns for tropical waters that we at CudaFly have come across. We have used this pattern extensively around many of the Bahamian islands to great success for species from bonefish to parrot fish. This fly should be tied in a variety of sizes concentrating on size #4 and lower. Its also easy and quick to tie. You can fish this fly on all densities of lines although our preferred method is to fish the shallows with a floating line.

Fly Tying Materials

Hook - #4 - #8 Stainless Steel
Thread - Black
Feelers  - Natural Hares Mask / Dubbing
Flash - Pearl Crinkle Flash
Eyes - Gold Dumb Bells
Rib - Medium Pearl Tinsel
Body - Natural Hares Ear

Fly Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with tying thread finishing just slightly past the beginning of the bend of the hook. ( you may notice that the thread used is black rather than using brown. When the fly is wet the underbody thread colour darkens the body of the fly and therefore lighter spots when combined with the hares ear guard hairs ) Select a natural hares mask and cut some fibres from the cheek of the mask, the longer the better, remove the fluff from the base of these fibres and tie in as the feelers. Select a few strands of pearl crinkle flash and tie this in as a topping for the feelers. Tie in the medium pearl tinsel and wind the thread along the shank of the hook until you reach approximately 1/3 along the hook shank. Tie in the Gold Dumb Bells on top of the hook shank making sure that the eyes are at right angles to the hook shank. This will ensure that the fly fished upside down in the water. Return the thread to where you tied in the pearl tinsel and dub the thread with wax. Select your hares ear, using as much guard hairs as possible in the mix and dub this onto the thread. Wrap this around the hook shank ensuring to cover where the Dumb Bells meet the shank of the hook both above and below. Continue until just before the eye of the hook and rib the fly with the pearl medium tinsel. Ties off, whip finish and varnish. As an option you can paint red spots on the Dumb Bells as a hitting spot.

Saltwater Tying Pattern - Steve's Ultra Shrimp

Fly Pattern History
We at CudaFly have always enjoyed fishing the original Ultra shrimp pattern and have had great success both here in the UK and abroad, but felt that it could do with a more life like representation in the water. As most Saltwater species, including Bass, heavily feed on shrimp. After many months of experimentation this was the final result. When fished the pattern resembles the translucency of the natural and has enough definition to for the fish to easily see the fly in clear water. The fly doesn't sink quickly and hence needs to be fished on a variety of sinking lines in the UK. When fishing the Bahamas the fly fishes best on a floating line.

Fly Tying Materials

Hook - #4 - #6 Stainless Steel
Thread - White
Feelers  - Natural Buck Tail
Flash - Pearl Crinkle Flash
Eyes - Burnt Plastic
Over Body - Champagne Savage Hair
Under Body - White Savage Hair

Fly Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with thread stopping at the bend of the hook. Tie in a pinch of natural deer hair and top with a few strands of pearl crinkle flash. Take 2 strips of plastic tubing and hold the ends close to a flame until the ends ball, then place to one side to cool. Once cool tie the eyes in on the top of the hook shank so that the balls are equally spaced. Trim excess. Return the thread until just before the eye of the hook and take some champagne savage hair and tie this as a shell cover. Before you tighten the threads using your thumb spread the savage hair at the tie in point to fan out the hair. Trim excess and tie in firmly. Turn the hook upside down in the vice and repeat the above process with the white savage hair. Form a neat head with the thread and whip finish. Turn the hook now the right way up in the vice and coat the shell back and the thread with permanent marker half way up the shell casing ( the champagne savage hair). Once this is dry coat the top of the fly with 5 minute epoxy.

Saltwater Tying Patterns - Angel Hair Bait fish

Fly Pattern History
This pattern arose after a season of bass fly fishing when there was an extremely high proportion of bait fish compared to sand eel and the bass seemed completely preoccupied with this food source. Usually if you only have sand eel patterns when bass fishing and they are selectively feeding on bait fish a little cutting with a pair of scissors at the waterside on the fly can result in a fair imitation. This season was different. Unless the fly moved in a similar fashion and had the broad side profile the bass where not interested. After some experimentation this was the end result. It worked fantastically. This fly has also caught fish for me throughout the world and has now become one of my most favourite flies. The Angel hair bait fish can be fished on all lines and all retrieves.

Fly Tying Materials

Hook - #4 to #1/0 stainless steel
Thread - White
Eyes - Epoxy eyes
Body - Pearl Angel Hair
Over body - Olive Angel Hair

Fly Tying Procedure
Bed the hook with tying thread finishing just before the bend. Select a length of pearl Angel Hair and tie this above the hook shank. Select another length and tie this under the shank. Continue this process of applying Angel Hair above and below the hook shank until you reach just before he eye. You will notice that the side of the fly looks uneven. Cover the side of the shank on both sides by tying in a section of pearl Angel Hair. Tie in a section on Olive Angel Hair as a topping over the body of the fly, trim all excesses and whip finish. Trim the body to obtain a 'fish' shape to the fly. Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the head and allow to dry until tacky. Just before the epoxy sets squeeze the epoxy head to flare out the body of the fly. Once the epoxy has fully set glue the eyes in place and cover with a further coat of epoxy. Once this has set cover the head with 2 coats of Sally Hanson's hard as nails for a glossy finish.

Saltwater Tying Patterns - GLH Marauder

Kindly Submitted By Gavin Hurst

History
The GLH Marauder has accounted for many of my saltwater catches and is my favourite all round pattern. If you would like to try tying one for yourself the recipe is given here. The marauder is one of the most successful flies in my armoury and can be fished on any line in any location for many of our UK native species.
Tight Lines - Gavin
For more information contact author@carcharodonangling.co.uk

Tying Procedure
Hook - Mustad 39951BLN (Light Weight Version) size 1/0 to 3/0 or Mustad 34007 size 2 to 2/0
Silk/Thread - White UTC 210 denier or G.S.P. 100 denier (Black for night fly version)
Body - Pearl Tinsel or Mylar tied in at the head and wound around the hook shank to a point just around the bend of the hook then back up to the eye.
Under wing - White Polar Fibre or Fun Fur (Black for night fly) trimmed off the backing fabric at the base of the fibres. Remove the shorter fibres to reduce bulk with a tying comb or pet fur comb and tie it in at the head to the desired length dependant upon hook size and spread around the hook shank. To do this first place a couple of loose turns of silk over it then spread the polar fibre around the shank with your fingers before wrapping with a few more binding turns of silk.
Middle Wing - Six to eight strands of pearl Krystal Flash cut to the length of the polar fibre.
Over wing - Black, Olive, Chartreuse or Blue Polar Fibre or Fun Fur tied on the top of the shank at the head.
Flanks - Pearl UNI Mylar #12 tied in on either side of the head cut to the length of the polar fibre.
Building The Body - Apply one coat of Devcon 5 min clear epoxy and work it into the fibres with your bodkin just beyond the hook bend and once this has set apply the eyes and draw in the gills with a red permanent marker.
Eyes - 5 mm holographic silver.
Finish - Apply a second coat of 5 min epoxy evenly to cover the first coat and to seal the eyes then place it on an epoxy drier.

Pike Fly Tying Patterns

Here are a few Pike fly tying patterns to inspire you fly tying fanatics out there, feel free to revisit as new fly patterns will be updated regularly. Good Luck, Tight Lines and Enjoy.

If you would like to see any of your own patterns on these pages simply complete the CONTACT US form with a paragraph describing and how to fish, tying instructions with material list and a photograph. Please title the CONTACT US form 'fly tying pattern submission' due to the amount of junk email we receive.
For every pattern listed we will send you a fly tying 'goodie bag' worth £10

Pike Tying Patterns - Pike Marabou Sparkler

Fly Tying History
The Pike Marabou Sparkler is one of the simplest pike fly tying patterns yet can be one of the most successful flies that we at CudaFly have used. Although it is far from an exact replica of a bait fish the amount of movement this fly obtains in the water attracts pike like none other. The pulsating marabou collar combined with the flash of the tail is indicative of a wounded pray fish triggering the aggressive nature of Pike. This fly fishes best on sinking lines depending on the depth of water fished. Varying the retrieve constantly is the key to pike fishes. Sometimes the best retrieve is to pull in 20-30 feet of line then come to a full stop for a minute. As with most pike flies this one is big. Ideally you need a fly length of 12 inches so get that casting practice in, ensuring that the rod and not you do most of the work. As with all predator fishing use a length of wire trace on your leaders.

Fly Tying Method

Hook - Pike Aberdeen #4/0
Thread - Hot Lime Green Glo Floss
Tail - Laser Lite and pearl crystal hair
Collar - Red Marabou
Head - Cover in Epoxy

Fly Tying Procedure
Using the glo floss as tying thread, bed the shank of the hook from the eye and finish just before the bend. Cut a generous amount of laser lite using the full length of the shank of the material and tie this in. Select a generous length of pearl crystal hair and tie this in also. Trim and apply a couple of firm wraps of floss and continue wraps so that there are no bumps at the join. Take a red marabou plume and tie in at the tip. Wrap this as a hackle three or four times to give a bushy collar, tie this in securely and trim. Form a tapered nose and tie off near the eye. Epoxy the nose of the fly, let dry and cover with two of Sally Hanson's hard as nails. You will notice on the above picture that the hook has been de barbed. Personally I de barb all pike hooks before I start tying. Aberdeen hooks, although very strong can be brittle around the hook point when being de barbed. I therefore use a pair of gas pliers to de barb my hooks due the surface area, slowly increasing the pressure until the hook is de barbed.

Pike Tying Patterns - Pike Needle Fish

Fly Tying History
Pike Fly fishing can be an excellent alternative to trout during the winter months however is a sport in its own right and can be enjoyed throughout the coarse fishing season. This particular pattern is one of the more simpler type, being quick and easy to tie. However do not be deceived as it is one of the best patterns I know for small lakes and canals. As with most patterns it can be fished on all lines however works best on a clear fast intermediate. Due to its size you will need a rod rating of at least an #8 to cast and don't forget a wire leader of at least 8 inches due to the Pike's teeth. Once you have had a pike on the fly you will never look back. The best advice I can give whilst Pike fly fishing is varying the retrieve and the fishing depth.

Fly Tying Materials

Hook - Pike Aberdeen #4/0
Thread - Hot Orange Glo Floss
Tail - White artificial hair
Flash - Pearl Lazer Lite
Head - Cover in Epoxy

Fly Tying Procedure
As most fisheries require you to return Pike unharmed most hooks have to be either De Barbed or have micro barbs. Although Aberdeen hooks are strong they can be brittle around the hook point when crushing barbs. Aberdeen hooks where originally designed for sea bait fishing where most anglers do not de barb hooks. A strong pair of pliers are required for this, I use a pair of gas pliers. Place the hook in the vice and we can now begin tying. Bed the shank of the hook with Hot orange Glo Floss and cut excess. Cut a section of artificial hair and remove all the fluff at the base of the hair. Brush the hair through with a hair comb. For the artificial hairs I find you get a better result with an old tooth brush. Tie this in at the rear of the fly making sure that the hair is secure. Select a length of pearl lazer lite and tie a length of this either side of the tail. Cut all excess and form a tapering head. Tie off and trim at the nose. Cover the nose with a coat of clear epoxy and place on a drier to dry. This is to protect the fly from the Pike's teeth. A big tip her is to let some of the epoxy drip into the joint where the tail and nose meet. Although this doesn't look very neat and pretty this gives extra strength to the tail / nose joint and ensure that the artificial hair will not come loose after catching a few Pike.

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